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RX-8 Performance brake pads + fluid

Your RX-8

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Stops better
Medium$180–$3202–3 hrs
All RX-8 mods

Why do it

Better pads and fresh high-temperature fluid reduce brake fade during spirited driving.

Heads up

Brakes are safety-critical. If you've never done brakes, have someone experienced check your work.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • The RX-8 uses single-piston front calipers.
  • Check rotor thickness and condition. Replace or resurface rotors that are worn below spec or badly grooved.
  • New performance pads like Hawk HPS must be bedded in. That's the last step and it matters.

Video guide

Complete RX-8 brake install, front and rear
by RedlineGarage on YouTube

Also swaps rotors. Watch the rear section (11:40) closely: the rear pistons twist in, they don't push in. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Lift and remove wheels

    • Loosen the nuts, raise the car onto jack stands and remove the wheels.

  2. Remove the caliper

    • Remove the caliper bolts and slide the caliper off. Hang it from the spring with a wire or bungee, never by the brake hose.
    Watch this step (1:22–3:14)

  3. Swap the pads

    • Remove the old pads, clean the slides, and move over the clips and shims.
    • Front: push the caliper piston back slowly with a C-clamp, using an old pad against the piston. Watch the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn't overflow.
    • Rear: the RX-8 rear pistons do NOT push straight in, because they're part of the parking brake. They have to be turned clockwise while pressing in, using a rear caliper wind-back tool (a few dollars to rent or buy at auto parts stores). Forcing one in with a C-clamp can ruin the caliper.
    Watch this step (3:14–9:18) Rear pistons: how to twist them back (12:00–13:46)

  4. Reinstall

    • Fit the new pads, slide the caliper on and torque the bolts to spec. Repeat on the other side.
    Watch this step (9:18–11:40)

  5. Bleed with fresh fluid

    • Bleed each corner until clean fluid with no bubbles comes out, following your service manual's order. The usual order is right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
    • Keep the reservoir topped up the whole time. If it runs dry, you'll pull air into the system.

  6. Pump the pedal

    • Before moving the car, pump the pedal until it's firm. The first press after pushing the pistons back will go to the floor.

  7. Bed in the pads

    • In a safe, empty area, do several medium stops from about 35 mph, then several firmer stops from about 50 mph, without coming to a full stop or holding the brakes at the end.
    • Drive a few minutes without braking hard to let them cool. Follow the pad maker's bedding instructions if they differ.

How to know it worked

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.